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German, Austrian & Hungarian Reds
German, Austrian and Hungarian red wines…even the title of this tasting theme is rather unwieldy, I’ll admit. I could have called it Central European red wines, but then, which countries make that cut isn’t always clear, and I’d be skipping interesting wines from other Central European countries, like Slovenia, Croatia and Switzerland.
Referencing prior connections between these 3 countries seems even worse, automatically dragging our minds back to the Central Powers, even though their respective histories - and in particular, their wine production histories - stretch back much, much further than WWII, so that doesn’t work either.
Hence this tasting’s unwieldy name. Though all 3 countries are known for their white wines, from Germany’s Rieslings to Hungary’s sweet Tokaji to Austria’s Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings, they all have quality red wines, too.
This tasting is for those who aren’t afraid of an umlaut or an impossible-to-pronounce-on-the-first-try wine. It’s for anyone who is curious about wines from lesser-known regions, or just in finding a really good deal. And for anyone who wants to become that guy who gets to spread the gospel of lesser-known wine.
American Whites
It’s always interesting hearing others’ opinions about American wine as an American living abroad. First in France, and now in Denmark, I’ve heard so many things about the wines from my native country. Many of which are quite different from my own perceptions of American wine, as an American.
Only about 3-5 percent of American wine produced each year is exported, a very small percentage, especially compared to European wine-producing countries, which tend to export 25 percent or more. And even those small amounts of exports have had it rough lately with the current president’s policy changes. Suffice it to say that only a teensy little bit of American wine gets to represent the entirety of the country abroad. And that makes for some interesting perceptions.
I’ve been told that all American white wines are overripe and buttery with high alcohol levels. I’ve been told that all American whites are overpriced. I’ve been told that American whites don’t age well. I’ve been told that “classic” American whites are made entirely in the cellar, especially with clear malolactic fermentation and oak aging, resulting in creamy, buttery wines with prominent flavors of vanilla and toasted hazelnuts.
It hasn’t always been easy to decide when to jump in and negate these ideas, and when to just shrug and let others have their (sometimes intractable) opinions. Let me say here though: American whites are not just buttery Chardonnay and oaked Sauvignon Blanc, even if those wines do exist, and are often utterly delicious. American whites can age beautifully. And American whites can be highly indicative of their terroir and vintage. Sure, there are some big brands who craft blends that prioritize consistency over a focus on showcasing terroir and vintage variation, but that is true in every wine-producing country, not just the United States.
This tasting guide covers 6 “classic” American whites, including the oak-aged beauties that have come to dominate foreign perceptions, but also including the unoaked wines that deserve just as much of your attention. If you currently believe that American white wine is just one thing, I hope this tasting will change your mind.
Greek Wines
I haven’t been to Greece yet. “Yet” being the operative word here, since the country and its widely varied regions are high on my to-visit list. Even without personal experience, Greece has managed to push its way to the top of my list of Wineluck Club themes this week thanks to several synchronicities. It’s been one of those weeks where I have to wonder if I’ve been noticing Greek things more because it was a contender for this week’s theme, or if the Universe decided to send me signs. Friends have mentioned Greek travels in various regions. The MBA program I attended just posted a recap of a wine trip to Greece. Summery Greek recipes have been littering my inbox. You get the idea.
Greece is demanding its turn in the spotlight, so here I am, doing my best to give this ancient country’s wines their due.
Spanish Reds
Yes, I know it’s strange that I covered Spanish whites before covering the country’s way-more-famous reds. So here I am, back and writing about what you expected to see in the first place: Spanish Reds.
Some of these wine styles are best known by their region, like Rioja and Priorat. Others are best known by the grape variety, like Bobal or Monastrell. It can all get a bit confusing, so I’ve selected 6 of the “must know” styles, and labeled them by the word(s) that will help you find them fastest.
Spanish Whites
When you hear “Spanish wine,” the first thing that comes to mind is Rioja, right? Or maybe Ribera del Duero? Priorat? I could go on. Few would think of an Albariño, Rueda or Txakolí first.
Spain is largely thought of as red wine country, but there are white wines coming out of Spain that are just as deserving of your attention. Even better, they’re usually outrageously affordable. This Spanish Whites wine tasting guide covers some of the best known and most widely available white wines from España, so that you can decide which you like best.
Italian Whites
While working for an importer in the US, I had a delightfully creative Italian boss who came up with the idea to promote our Italian white wine portfolio as the “Great Whites,” shark-style. Picture a giant white shark’s head, jaw open wide around a cluster of wine bottles, jagged rows of pointy triangular teeth everywhere. It’s a memorable visual, which was exactly the point. Hopefully, you’ll remember it now too, since Italian white wines could certainly use some help in the memorability department.
In the same way that the best Italian dishes aren’t about complexity, but instead, about simplicity delivered with care and attention, Italy’s white wines aren’t known for bursting forth from the glass or clamoring for your attention. They’re more like that quiet friend who doesn’t speak often…but when she does, everyone listens.
American Reds
If you get red wine teeth as easily as I do, take your selfies before this tasting really gets going. American red wines are known for being some of the wine world’s biggest, boldest, ripest reds. That means your teeth could end up looking like you’ve befriended Dracula. I can also recommend wearing dark clothes or busy prints, because red wine spills and splashes are real, even for the highly experienced among us.
That said, more and more American producers have dialed back on the ‘bigger is better’ approach, making extremely elegant, nuanced and restrained styles of red wines, so consider mentioning your preferences when shopping for this tasting if you already know that you like one style more than the other.
Either way, this American Reds tasting is going to focus on monovarietal, or single-variety red wines. There are plenty of fantastic red blends in the US too, they’re just not the focus of this tasting, which will help you get to know the differences between the best-known varietal wines in the United States.
Austrian Whites
Austria always makes me think of Alpine skiers and hearty dishes like Wiener Schnitzel, knödels, and apfelstrudel. And if you just thought, wait, aren’t those foods German? Think again. Austria and Germany share a language and many cultural traditions, but Austria has a history just as long, complex and fascinating as its northern neighbor. And it has a wine culture all its own.
Austria’s capital city, Vienna, consistently tops lists of “most liveable cities in the world,” and I like to think that might be at least a teensy bit to do with the fact that Vienna is also the world’s only metropolis still growing vines and making wine within city limits. This is a country where wine has been made since the Bronze Age, and if the preservation of the vines within its capital is any indication, wine culture here is still going strong. This is your sign to get to know Austrian wines, starting with some of its best-known styles: the whites.
Italian Reds
No one is surprised that the first Italian tasting here is focused on the reds. Italy is famous for its red wines, but please don’t count out the whites! We’ll get to those another time, don’t worry. This tasting covers the “biggies.” The must-know Italian red wine styles, the ones that are widely exported and have come to represent Italy’s modern wine culture, even though it’s far more diverse than we could ever cover in a single tasting.
French Reds
French reds. Les vins rouges. Some of the most esoteric, expensive and imitated wines in the world. But also some of the most exuberant, relaxed and accessible. Wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux are considered the crème de la crème of the wine auction world, with bottle prices that can rival luxury cars. But those same regions have a myriad of delicious options at affordable prices too. This is a tasting theme that’s full of contradictions, and the good news is that there are enough options out there, so you can decide how deep to go.
French Whites
If you’re going to start anywhere, start here. Yes, even those of you who “only drink red wine.” The white wines of France are some of the world’s most versatile and classic wines, and they’re well worth exploring and understanding. I’d even be willing to bet that the most die-hard red wine drinkers among you will find at least one white here to love.