American Whites
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
It’s always interesting hearing others’ opinions about American wine as an American living abroad. First in France, and now in Denmark, I’ve heard so many things about the wines from my native country. Many of which are quite different from my own perceptions of American wine, as an American.
Only about 3-5 percent of American wine produced each year is exported, a very small percentage, especially compared to European wine-producing countries, which tend to export 25 percent or more. And even those small amounts of exports have had it rough lately with the current president’s policy changes. Suffice it to say that only a teensy little bit of American wine gets to represent the entirety of the country abroad. And that makes for some interesting perceptions.
I’ve been told that all American white wines are overripe and buttery with high alcohol levels. I’ve been told that all American whites are overpriced. I’ve been told that American whites don’t age well. I’ve been told that “classic” American whites are made entirely in the cellar, especially with clear malolactic fermentation and oak aging, resulting in creamy, buttery wines with prominent flavors of vanilla and toasted hazelnuts.
It hasn’t always been easy to decide when to jump in and negate these ideas, and when to just shrug and let others have their (sometimes intractable) opinions. Let me say here though: American whites are not just buttery Chardonnay and oaked Sauvignon Blanc, even if those wines do exist, and are often utterly delicious. American whites can age beautifully. And American whites can be highly indicative of their terroir and vintage. Sure, there are some big brands who craft blends that prioritize consistency over a focus on showcasing terroir and vintage variation, but that is true in every wine-producing country, not just the United States.
This tasting guide covers 6 “classic” American whites, including the oak-aged beauties that have come to dominate foreign perceptions, but also including the unoaked wines that deserve just as much of your attention. If you currently believe that American white wine is just one thing, I hope this tasting will change your mind.
Stuff to know
Despite what I’ve heard said about American white wines as an American living in Europe, there is no simple way to summarize what American whites are…or even what they’re not. The United States is a massive country, and wine is made in every single state, even though California still far and away holds the spot for highest-producing state at more than 80 percent of wine produced in the country, with Washington State, New York State, Oregon, Texas and Virginia trailing behind and nipping at each others’ heels, all in single digit percentages production-wise.
Without the history and structure of a geographical indication system like those with appellations in France or denominazioni in Italy, wine producers in the United States have a lot of freedom to choose what to make and how to make it. There are American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), but they don’t tend to have the same kind of restrictions that European systems include, and instead are usually focused more on ensuring that the grapes for the wine with an AVA on its label actually came from that AVA. Otherwise, there aren’t often many other restrictions on grape growing or winemaking, allowing producers to decide which grapes to plant, how and where, when to harvest and how they want to do so, and what to do in the cellar.
There are also many American producers that focus on certain aspects of production, preferring to specialize in grape growing, selling their grapes to other wineries, or specializing in winemaking, purchasing grapes from growers, often with long-term contracts. Some own neither vineyards or cellars, purchasing grapes and renting winemaking facilities - sometimes as a way to get a foot in the door in an expensive industry, sometimes as a long-term strategy.
However a producer is set up and wherever they are, there’s always a choice about which grapes to plant - or purchase. White wine-wise, Chardonnay is far and away the front runner, as the most widely planted white grape variety in the US, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling.
There are other white wine grapes though; some planted in huge amounts but never appearing on labels, like French Colombard, Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Blanc, typically blended into wines that choose not to promote these grapes on the labels. And there are grapes like Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Sémillon, Marsanne, Roussane, Grüner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Albariño, Assyrtiko, Verdicchio, Grillo and even Rkatsiteli being used individually and together to make adventurous and distinctive American white wines from grapevines hailing from countries like France, Germany, Spain, Greece, Italy and even Georgia. As I mentioned, there is a lot of freedom.
Unfortunately, it isn’t always easy to find each of these styles of American white wine, so this tasting is focused on the “classics,” with intentional quotation marks, since what is truly classic in terms of American wine can be debated. These wine styles were selected to showcase breadth and prominence, but also to allow for ease in your pre-tasting shopping efforts.
Of course there is oaked American Chardonnay, the creamy, buttery, full-bodied style of wine that put American wine on the map during the 1976 Judgement of Paris, a blind tasting judged by top French wine experts in which the then-new wines of California were pitted against the classic red (Bordeaux) and white (Burgundy) wines of France. But there is also unoaked American Chardonnay, a style that became increasingly popular after the late 90’s and early aughts’ “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay) movement that pushed American producers to adjust to changing consumer preferences. These days, after decades of winemaking practice and plenty of changes in consumer preferences, American Chardonnay is by no means one single style.
There are American Sauvignon Blancs - and not just the zippy, citrus-y, grassy wines you might have tried from the Loire Valley or New Zealand. There’s another style, Fumé Blanc, that’s more reminiscent of Bordeaux Blanc than Sauvignon Blancs from down under, with its overt oak aging influence.
American Riesling might surprise you, especially if your idea of American wine is Californian wine, since this grape variety tends to excel in Washington State and the New York Finger Lakes region. Pinot Gris also brings us outside California, since its spiritual home in America lies in Oregon, though other states’ plantings are also on the rise.
Whatever your current impression of American white wine, this tasting is intended to broaden your perspective while sharing both the cost and experience, which just makes everything more fun.
What to look for in this tasting
There’s a pervasive assumption that all American white wines are ripe and full-bodied with high alcohol levels. The reality is much, much more nuanced. Even within California, where the vast majority of American wines are produced, there are regions where the Pacific Ocean, elevation or both keep things on the chilly side. There’s fog, cooling winds, rivers, mountainous peaks and more that drastically alter how ripe grapes can get, and therefore how ripe and full-bodied the wines can, too. And that’s just within California. Oregon is known for its cool, wet climate, while Washington State and Texas tend to battle entirely different problems. New York State faces the potential for freezing winters and humid, rainy summers, while Virginia, too has its own humidity-related challenges to deal with. Suffice it to say that American white wine can’t be easily summarized.
It’s worth paying attention to where the wine comes from - even within a single state. A Chardonnay from Oregon or the New York Finger Lakes will likely have more acidity and the kinds of fruit flavors that can be quite tart, like Granny Smith apples, lemon zest and white peaches. A Chardonnay labeled “California” (not from a particular region within, but rather from many vineyards around the state) will likely come from the warmer parts of the state, where it’s often warm and easy to let the fruit become ripe, even overripe, resulting in wines with low to moderate acidity levels and tropical fruit flavors like grilled pineapple and mango, whereas a wine from the Sonoma Coast or Sta. Rita Hills will be a cool-climate Californian Chardonnay with entirely different characteristics.
If the bottle indicates whether the wine went through malolactic fermentation, lees stirring or oak aging, you’ll know even more about what to expect. These winemaking techniques result in creamier-tasting wines with more body and flavors like butter, yogurt and vanilla.
Whichever style you’re tasting, consider whether the wines taste cohesive and integrated. Do all of the flavors and structural elements feel like they blend into a single, beautiful experience? Or does something stick out, like sharp, hot alcohol, bracing acidity or heavy-handed toasty oak? The length of the wine, or the amount of time the flavors linger on your tongue, is also an indicator of quality. That said, whether or not you like the lingering flavors is the most important indicator of all.
The wines
#1: Oaked American Chardonnay
California Chardonnay is generally the go-to for oaked American Chardonnay, though there are gorgeous Chardonnays made in other states like Oregon, Washington, New York, Virginia and even Texas.
With fewer winemaking regulations than France and huge climatic variations from region to region, it can be challenging to figure out what to expect from Chardonnay in the United States. Luckily, many American producers choose to label their wines with names and descriptions that give you some idea what to expect. For example, if there’s “butter” in the name, you can expect the wine to be overtly oaky and ripe.
Even when labels aren’t overt, there are certain producers, like Rombauer, who have made quality buttery Chardonnay their signature style, while others, like Au Bon Climat, have intentionally aimed to contrast with a subtler, moderately oaked style. Climate is also a good rule of thumb, though there are always warmer and cooler spots and vintage variation to consider within wine regions.
Napa Valley, Sonoma Valley, Paso Robles, Monterey County, Lake County and Texas tend to have ripe grapes that translate to tropical flavors, and are often given the overt oakiness to match.
In Anderson Valley, Carneros, Santa Barbara, Washington State and Virginia, grapes’ ripeness tends more toward moderation, with the ripe apple and peach-y flavors to match, typically complemented by minimal oak influence.
What to ask for: Ask for an American Chardonnay with clear oak influence from any state, preferably from a region like Anderson Valley, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast, Santa Barbara County, Carneros-Napa Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey County, Paso Robles, Willamette Valley, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley, the Finger Lakes or any of their respective sub-regions.
Alternative(s): Stick with an oaked American Chardonnay from any state
#2: American Fumé Blanc
American wineries have grown Sauvignon Blanc grapes since the 1880s, but we can thank Robert Mondavi for creating a style distinctive enough to earn global fame. In a smart marketing move, Mondavi created “Fumé Blanc,” a name made up to differentiate his oak-aged, Bordeaux-style Sauvignon Blanc wines with flavors of green bell pepper, grapefruit, vanilla, smoke and coconut that somehow work cohesively.
Legally, Fumé Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc are the same thing, though winemakers typically use Fumé Blanc on labels to indicate that the wine’s style is ripe and fruit-forward, even if there isn’t any aging in oak barrels.
Like most things in American wine, there are many, many different styles of Sauvignon Blanc wines produced today, some in lightly toasted old French oak barrels, some in wholly new American oak barrels. If the label doesn’t specifically say “Fumé Blanc,” look for clear signs of oak aging to secure this style, like “oaked,” “barrel-fermented,” “toasted,” “vanilla” or “spice” in the wine’s description.
Alternative(s): Stick with a Fumé Blanc from any American state, or any American Sauvignon Blanc with clear oak aging
#3: American Riesling
My first tasting experiences with Riesling and all of its dry and sweet permutations weren’t in Germany as you might expect…but in the New York Finger Lakes region, on a girls’ trip. At the time, I was serious enough about wine to do some homework before selecting which wineries to visit, but I didn’t fully understand the breadth of Riesling styles available in the Finger Lakes, nor the quality. It was lucky that we road-tripped that vacation, since it was easy to stack cases of the delicious Riesling wines we couldn’t find in Ohio in the trunk with our luggage on the drive home.
All the way on the other side of the country, there are only a few styles that are better known from Washington State than from California, and Riesling is one of them. This is, in large part, thanks to Chateau Ste. Michelle. Amongst their many different wines is Eroica, the wine whose name I thought was spelled entirely differently as a teen.
Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is an exception in Washington, where most of the state’s wineries are small and family-run. Micro-wineries and urban wineries, especially in and around Seattle, have also gained steam as more young people, often self-taught, choose to try their hands at winemaking.
Rieslings are also made in Oregon, California and even Texas, so ask around to see what’s available where you live, and don’t forget to pay attention to the sweetness level if indicated on the label. If you know you prefer dry Rieslings, for example, look for the label indicator or ask your local retailer to point you in the right direction.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with an American Riesling from any state
#4: American Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris is one of those few American wine styles for which it’s best known from a state that isn’t California. Oregon, home of world-famous Pinot Noir, is also home to gorgeous Pinot Gris. In fact, Pinot Gris plantings even outnumber even the ever-beloved Chardonnay plantings that seem to always go hand-in-hand with Pinot Noir.
Oregon Pinot Gris leans Alsatian stylistically, hence the “Gris” instead of Grigio. In the Willamette Valley, long, dry, mild summers tend to allow for slow grape ripening that helps to create wines with plenty of tangy acidity that contrasts nicely with round, rich texture and weight. These wines tend to be powerful and fruit-forward, with a bit more ripe fruit and a bit less smoke when compared to Alsatian Pinot Gris. Expect to find citrus-y lime and kiwis alongside peach, golden apples, pears and a ginger spice that kicks right into phenolic almond skin flavors on the finish.
Beyond Oregon, Washington State and California both have significant Pinot Gris plantings, though styles vary, so the choice to use either Pinot Gris or Grigio on the label should help point you toward a fuller-bodied or lighter style, respectively.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with an American Pinot Gris, preferably from Oregon or Washington State
#5: Unoaked American Sauvignon Blanc
California and Washington are the states best known for Sauvignon Blanc wines today, where winemakers experiment with techniques using stainless steel, concrete eggs, old oak barrels, amphorae and more. There aren’t many rules that winemakers must follow, nor is there a signature American style, as there is with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Instead, Sauvignon Blanc wines can range from the clearly oaked, full-bodied and ripe Fumé Blancs to cool climate, lean and unoaked styles that more closely resemble the Loire Valley’s restrained, citrus-y and herbal-y Sancerre or New Zealand’s grassy and tropical Sauvignon Blancs, depending on where the grapes are grown and what choices the winemaker has made.
Since there are so many different styles produced, avoid any clear signs of oak aging on the label to secure this style, looking instead for fruit-centric words or indications of acidity like “fresh,” “crisp,” or “light.”
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with an unoaked American Sauvignon Blanc from any state
#6: Unoaked American Chardonnay
California is still the best-known state for Chardonnay, but high quality Chardonnay wines are being made all over the United States, from cool-climate Oregon, where Burgundian varieties thrive, to Washington State, New York, Virginia and Texas.
In the cool, coastal parts of California and in other American states, like the Sonoma Coast, Sta. Rita Hills, Oregon, and in New York’s Finger Lakes, many producers choose to make unoaked and steely Chardonnays to let the grapes’ nuanced flavors shine. These Chardonnays aren’t at all like the buttery, oaky, high-alcohol wines that many believe are the signature American white wine style.
Instead, these wines tend to be Chablis-like stylistically, with subtle flavors of green apple, starfruit and lemon with floral aromas like honeysuckle that often sit side-by-side with the endlessly debated flavor of “minerality,” often described as chalk, wet stones or saline.
Since there are so many different styles of Chardonnay produced in the United States, avoid any clear signs of oak aging on the label to secure this style, looking instead for the word “unoaked,” fruit-centric words, or indications of acidity like “fresh,” “crisp,” or “light.”
What to ask for: Ask by style name
Alternative(s): Stick with an unoaked American Chardonnay from any state
Tasting tips
The eats
Some of these wines will be creamy and decadent, while others will have fresh, racy acidity. To play with both experiences, complementing and contrasting, consider setting up a cheese fondue or even just a dip party. Think spinach and artichoke dip, guacamole, caramelized onion dip, queso, blue cheese dressing, the works. Fondue-wise, branch out from the chips and offer up crusty baguettes or soft pretzels, sliced apples, sliced bell peppers and even cubes of ham and pickles.
If you take the charcuterie route, you’ll have many options, from Chèvre and Comté to Swiss, Marscapone, Brie and more, paired with salami, smoked ham, Prosciutto, dried apricots, cantaloupe, pickles, toasted hazelnuts and crackers and baguettes.
The prep
Where you live will strongly impact your ability to find the wines for this tasting. Even within the United States, it can be difficult to find certain wines in certain states, which is partly due to the US’s post-Prohibition regulatory framework, the three-tier system that keeps alcohol producers, distributors and retailers separate in an effort to avoid monopolies and promote market competition…and seemingly also to make things extra complicated for consumers.
When I lived in Columbus, Ohio, it was difficult, though not entirely impossible, to find wines from the New York State, and the selection from Washington State and Oregon was limited at best. I couldn’t find anything from Texas or Virginia, or even from Ohio’s own wineries, unless I drove to visit them in person. When I lived in Austin, Texas, I could find Texas wines galore, and even a steady supply of New Mexican wine. Finding wines from New York State or Virginia, on the other hand, was impossible. It’s been a few years since I’ve lived in either city, but I’d be surprised if this situation has shifted in any major way. Compound this with the fact that only 3-5 percent of American wine is exported, and you can easily see why many foreigners have a one-dimensional view of American white wine.
This means that some of these wines might be easy to find, while others can take a while, all based on where you live. Give your guests at least 2 weeks to find their wines for this tasting.
Encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, since this is a tasting where it’s best if the wines are lightly or fully chilled. It’s a good idea to have an ice bucket or two handy as well, to accommodate any guests who forgot or didn’t have time to chill their wines before arrival.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first. If you have fewer than 6 wines/guests, you’ll still have a well-rounded experience. However, the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines are included, is recommended as follows:
Unoaked American Sauvignon Blanc
American Riesling
Unoaked American Chardonnay
American Pinot Gris
American Fumé Blanc
Oaked American Chardonnay
