Medium-Bodied Savory Red Wines
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
Fruity red wines tend to get all the love, in the same way milk chocolate always out-sells dark chocolate, with its near-universal appeal and versatility. But there’s something to be said for those who appreciate the savory side of things, in both chocolate and wine. Sure, there might be a bit more bitterness to contend with, but there are also intriguing flavors that add depth and complexity to the fruit, unfolding in leisurely fashion across the palate. Not to mention that sometimes, that kick of bitterness is exactly what we need.
Stuff to know
Medium-bodied wines can get a bit tricky, because there are climatic and winemaking variances that can push a particular wine toward the light-bodied or full-bodied side of things. For example, some Pinot Noir wines aren’t light-, but medium-bodied, especially the ones made in warmer climates, like parts of the United States and Australia, or ones aged partial or toasted new oak barrels. Some Merlot wines aren’t medium-, but full-bodied, especially the ones from warm climates aged in toasted new oak. I’m sure you’re sensing a theme here…
Body itself is confusing, too, since it’s a word more readily understood in the context of flesh than liquid. In wine’s case, the tannins, alcohol and sugar are the primary contributors, making a wine fuller-bodied, while acidity can make a wine feel lighter-bodied.
Extra-ripe grapes from warm places or warmer vintages will usually have more sugar in each grape and therefore more alcohol after fermentation, since yeasts consume the sugars and produce alcohol and CO2. Tannin, on the other hand, comes from both grapes and oak barrels.
Different grape varieties have more or less tannin, which you can both see and taste even in the grapes themselves, long before the wine is made. Pick a ripe Pinot Noir grape off a vine and it will usually be sweet and pleasant, with just a thin skin offering up some subtly scratchy tannin. Pick a ripe Cabernet Sauvignon grape off a vine and you’ll be chewing grape skin and feeling scratchy drying tannins all over your mouth. When grapes are grown in a warm or particularly sunny climate, their skins can be even thicker than they might otherwise be, since grape skins can thicken and darken, much like a summer tan.
Oak has natural tannin, too, and different types of oak have more or less natural tannin to offer. American oak releases its tannin and flavor easily, while slower-growing French oak trees tend to have a bit more restraint. How much or little the oak is toasted affects the tannin and flavor, too. If an oak barrel is almost charred, it will give a wine plenty of tannin and a dark, roasted coffee-like flavor, while a light toast will offer more subtlety. The amount of time a wine spends in oak and how much of that oak is newly toasted affects things, too. Suffice it to say that winemakers have quite a bit of control over how full-bodied a wine will be.
In this tasting, I’ve selected grapes and styles that are usually medium-bodied. There are exceptions…but there are always exceptions in the world of wine, which makes things endlessly entertaining and fun to explore.
What to look for in this tasting
Much like the medium-bodied fruity red wines, most these wines can be medium- or full-bodied, depending on how they’re made and aged. They’re in the medium-bodied tasting because they’re usually medium-bodied…though I can’t offer any guarantees. Winemakers are allowed to play, after all.
Make no mistake, these wines have plenty of fruit flavors on offer, they just aren’t known for their fruitiness first, since the fruit flavors tend to play a complementary role, sharing the stage with savory flavors like dried herbs, flowers, spices, tobacco and dark chocolate, along with prominent tannins and racy acidity. While they vary in each of these wines, the structural and savory elements tend to draw your notice more than the fruit, which is there in a supporting role.
The wines
#1: Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is one of the Bordeaux grape varieties, frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and especially Merlot in the Right Bank. But Cabernet Franc is better understood when you can enjoy the variety solo in wines from regions like Chinon and Bourgueil in the Loire Valley, France as well as Italy, Chile, Argentina, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the USA.
Cabernet Franc, as you’ve probably guessed, is related to Cabernet Sauvignon. Though the lesser-known of the two, Cabernet Franc is thought to be a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, thanks to a natural crossing with Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc nevertheless produces the gentler and lighter of the two wine styles.
Cabernet Franc wines tend to be light- to medium-bodied, depending on how warm the climate and vintage have been. In the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc wines like Chinon and Bourgueil have been known for a signature “green” characteristic that can be described as tasting like green bell peppers, jalepeños or leaves. As the climate has changed in recent years, this characteristic has become less noticeable, though it can still be quite pronounced in wines made from grapes in high elevation vineyards in Chile or Argentina.
Most Cabernet Franc wines are medium-bodied with assertive, though moderate and silky tannins and high acidity, combined with red fruit flavors like red currant, raspberry and cherry along with violets, dried tobacco and a woody minerality that reminds me of old-school pencil sharpeners. Look out for the “green” note, which could be obvious and demanding or hardly noticeable at all.
What to ask for: Ask for a Chinon or Bourgueil
Alternative(s): A Cabernet Franc wine from Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Touraine, Anjou Villages, Chile, Argentina, Italy, Canada, Australia, New Zealand or the USA
#2: Blaufränkisch
Blaufränkisch. (”blauw-frohnk-eesh”) is one of those wines that suffers from poor marketing, simply due to having a decidedly unsexy name. The grape goes by other monikers, but I can’t say that the alternatives really improve things: it’s also known as Blauer Limberger in Germany, Frankovka in Czech Republic and Serbia, Frankovka modrá in Slovakia, Kékfrankos in Hungary and Franconia in Italy.
Even with its decidedly central European roots, Blaufränkisch is best known in Austria, where it thrives in regions like Burgenland and Niederösterreich. The “blau” in Blaufränkisch refers to the dark, almost blue color of the grapes, which give these wines a deceptively deep color that makes you think the wines will be massive. Most are medium-bodied, with some edging toward the light end of medium and some edging toward full-bodied, usually thanks to extra ripeness and oak aging.
Like many savory wines, Blaufränkisch has noticeable tannins and complementary moderate to high acidity levels. Though the wines are medium-bodied, they can still feel dense and rich, thanks to the prominent tannins and intense, dark flavors, especially the peppery note that delivers spiciness in spades, like getting freshly ground pepper delivered via wine instead of food. Other common flavors include blackberry and black cherry, as well as dark chocolate and cinnamon.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Kékfrankos from Hungary, Blauer Limberger from Germany, Frankovka from the Czech Republic and Serbia, Frankovka modrá from Slovakia or Franconia from Italy
#3: Dolcetto
Dolcetto roughly translates to “little sweet one,” which is a so-so description for wines that tend to be fruit-forward, offering the perception of sweetness, but with a bittersweet edge to their dry finish. Dolcetto wines, in contrast to Barbera, tend to have low acidity and plenty of chewy tannins. These wines are an inky dark purple in the glass, and are abundantly fruity, with aromas and flavors of dark cherries, blackberries, blueberries, almond liqueur and licorice.
Alba and Dogliani are the two areas best-known today for their Dolcettos, though there are several DOCs for the grape throughout the region. Dogliani, Ovada and Diano d’Alba hold DOCGs for their Dolcetto wines, which is the highest quality classification for a historic area and wine style in Italy.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Dolcetto wine from Piedmont such as a Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, Dolcetto di Diano di’ Alba Superiore, Dolcetto d’Ovada Superiore, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto d’Asti or Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi
#4: Teroldego
Teroldego (”teh-roll-deh-go”) grapes are from Trentino-Alto Adige, that wine region in northern Italy where all the road signs are in both German and Italian, and the culture is its own blend of Austrian and Italian alpine beauty. The name Teroldego is thought to derive from “oro” and Tirolo, or the “gold one from Tirolo,” particular during a time when it was popular with the royal court of Vienna.
Teroldego is one of Italy’s ancient grape varieties, though for a long time, it was mostly appreciated locally and largely ignored further afield. We have Elisabetta Foradori to thank for bringing Teroldego to international prominence.
Her wines were the first I’d ever tried, and one bottle even made our wall of “wines to remember” that my husband and I used to have in our Austin apartment. While we don’t have a wall like that anymore, we did one better: we visited Agricola Foradori during a road trip from our home in Copenhagen to Verona in 2023. I didn’t get to meet Elisabetta herself (one day!), since our schedules didn’t line up, but we did leave with several of her single-vineyard bottlings, and I can assure you, they age stunningly.
Teroldego wines tend to be quite darkly colored, though they are medium-bodied with soft, clear tannins and bright, often high acidity. The wines tend to be intensely aromatic, so much so that they used to be used as a blending tool to add more color and aroma to otherwise thin, pale wines. Flavors like red cherry, strawberry, pomegranate and tomato are complemented by a wide variety of savory aromas and flavors, including anything from ink, tar and fresh herbs to dried tobacco, leather and baking spices.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Teroldego-based wines from other parts of Italy like Tuscany and Sicily or from the USA, Australia or Brazil
#5: Lagrein
Lagrein (”lah-grine”) is related to Teroldego, another grape variety native to Trentino-Alto Adige in northern Italy. Lagrein wines were once thought so special that they were reserved solely for the nobility and courts as well as the church (of course). But in 1526, local hero and farmer Michael Gasmayr staged a revolt with his fellow workers, demanding - and securing! - the right to drink Lagrein wines. A wine worth fighting for.
One of the reasons Lagrein was so coveted was that the grapes are incredibly dark, unusual in Italian wines, much less northern Italian wines. Lagrein grapes have very high concentrations of anthocyanins, the pigment in plants that makes them deeply colored, like açaí, black currants and red cabbage. Lagrein grapes also contribute plenty of tannin, so much so that the wines can be quite harsh and bitter, needing some time to age and soften, at least before modern winemaking methods improved the situation.
Lagrein is typically grown on the south-facing slopes around Bolzano, where sunshine is plentiful and it’s surprisingly warm, a necessity for this late-ripening grape. Lagrein wines can be full-bodied, though many winemakers choose to use techniques like long oak aging or gentle pressing to make medium-bodied wines with velvety, approachable tannins upon release.
Lagrein wines tend to have high acidity levels complementing the strong tannins, and often have flavors of dark fruits like blackberry, dark cherry and black plum along with dark chocolate, coffee, allspice, dried tobacco and dried herbs.
What to ask for: Ask by style name
Alternative(s): Lagrein wines from Tuscany, the USA or Australia, Rosato Lagrein wines
#6: Etna Rosso
Etna Rosso wines are made up of at least 80% Nerello Mascalese, a grape variety unique to this northeastern part of Sicily, where Mount Etna’s volcanic influence reigns supreme. Nerello Cappuccio, another local red grape variety, can be up to 20% of the blend. The first Etna Rosso wines I tried were from Tornatore, and later, I got to represent their wines when I worked for GALLO. Fast forward a few more years, during which I got to represent Nicosia and I Custodi in other roles, and I finally got to visit Mount Etna myself.
My husband and I toured Sicily for our honeymoon in 2021, luckily before White Lotus chose Taormina for its second season and made the area even more popular than it already was. I still have plenty of wine regions yet to visit, but so far, the coolest vineyard I’ve ever seen was on Mount Etna.
It’s impossible not to feel Mount Etna’s looming presence all around in northeastern Sicily. Europe’s largest active volcano makes itself noticed with its constant plumes of smoke and broad expanse. Most of its vineyards lie between 1,300 feet (400m) and 2,600 feet (800m), but the elevation doesn’t feel particularly dramatic when you’re there. Hiking up certain streets in Taormina was more physically demanding than walking in several of the broadly sloping vineyards we visited on Etna.
We were invited to drive our rental car onto a one-lane “road” that was really just stacked lunar-looking black lava stones, where we left it to walk along the narrower lava stone walls and down into vineyards whose individually-staked vines were hundreds of years old and taller than my 5’10” (178cm) frame. Old palmentos, traditional stone buildings where wines used to be made, dot the landscape, some in ruins. Paths of devastation from previous lava flows bracket the old vines, reminding you that even on sunny, clear days, total destruction is always a possibility.
Someone once said to me that the wines from Mount Etna showcase the “dark side of minerality.” I love that description, and rely on it regularly when attempting to articulate that salty, slightly smoky quality that feels alive with tension and unique to wines from Etna.
Etna Rossos are tricky appearance-wise, since they’re pale in the glass, but pack a punch structurally, much like Nebbiolo wines from Barolo and Barbaresco. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are often blended thanks to their complementary natures. Nerello Mascalese wines are pale-colored, but have plenty of acidity and tannin. Nerello Cappuccio offers more color and softens acidity, and doesn’t bring much tannin to the party. Together, they make wines that are excitingly vibrant, bursting with sour cherries, raspberries and blood oranges, along with fresh violets, sun-baked herbs and tobacco.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): 100% Nerello Mascelese wines
Tasting tips
The eats
It’s early July in Copenhagen as I write this, and the temperatures are finally hitting 27°C (80°F), making it feel like it’s now a proper summer. For all of my American friends, especially the Texan ones, yes, I am aware that 80°F is a cake walk and that your temperatures are swiftly approaching those 100°F (38°C) mid-summer climes. But please remember, air conditioning is not a thing here, and most buildings were built to retain heat, rather than release it. Suffice it to say that it’s full-on summer now, which means I pretty much want to eat anything and everything that’s touched a grill.
For this tasting, I’d suggest mixing things up from your go-to burger and hot dog fare and selecting some interesting sausages. Yes, I know hot dogs are considered sausages, but are they really? I’m talking about proper sausages, the kinds with herbs and spices and flavor. The kinds that German and Czech immigrants brought to Texas, where Mexican spices have made their way into things too. The Italian kinds, the Polish kinds…any kinds of sausages, really, as long as they’re packing a punch. None of those Medister ones that are popular here, with more fat than flavor. Grill up the sausages with an array of peppers and corn on the cob and you’ve got the ideal comfort foods for a relaxed summer tasting.
If you prefer to take the charcuterie route, aim for cheeses and meats with relatively robust flavor profiles. Not necessarily the knock-your-socks-off strength, but sufficient flavor to stand up to some tannin, with cheeses like cheddar, Asiago or Gruyère and meats like salami, Serrano ham, or summer sausage. Even the breads can use some extra heartiness, with whole-grain options in the mix, whether crackers, crusty bread or toasted crostini. Cherries, figs and red grapes will add some contrasting sweetness, while green olives add a salty bite. Round things out with nuts like pecans and spiced almonds and you’ll be ready to roll.
The prep
Several of these wines, like Teroldego, Etna Rosso and Lagrein, come from specific regions and may take some time to find, depending on where you live. Other wines, like Cabernet Franc, are made in many wine regions globally, so they’ll be easy to find. These wines can be found at a wide range of price points, so it’s up to you as a host to decide whether you want to provide a spending range, or if you just want to leave that decision up to your guests.
I know it might feel strange to chill red wines, but these wines are still best with just a little bit of coolness to them. Imagine that you are grabbing these bottles straight from a fancy cellar where the air feels brisk and damp. That’s the goal here: a quick dunk in an ice bucket or a short break in the fridge will suffice.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first. If you have fewer than 6 wines/guests, you’ll still have a well-rounded experience. However, the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines are included, is recommended as follows:
Etna Rosso
Dolcetto
Blaufränkisch
Teroldego
Cabernet Franc
Lagrein
