Alsace
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
This time of year six years ago, I had just finished all of the MBA final exams, projects and papers and was finally feeling the giddy exhaustion of accomplishment. Our class toasted and danced at our local cocktail bar in Dijon, and then my classmates began to move away to their respective corners of the world. I hung on for a few weeks, just as long as my money would stretch. And I set off with a friend and classmate to spend a weekend in Alsace.
Alsace is one of those regions where the borders have shifted time and again while the residents and their traditions resolutely endured. Not quite French, not quite German, Alsace is a place all its own. The villages here served as inspiration for Beauty and the Beast, a fairytale apropos to the region’s over-the-top charm. And that’s all before you’ve even begun to taste the wines. Wines whose breadth is tremendous, with character to spare.
Stuff to know
Alsace is in northeastern France, a region where the border with Germany has moved back and forth over the centuries. It’s a place where languages and traditions have clashed and blended, creating a dialect and culture completely its own.
The Vosges mountains protect Alsace, breaking up rain clouds and storms that might otherwise dampen and cool the region. Instead, Alsace is surprisingly sunny and warm, even so far north, with growing seasons that often stay dry late into the autumn, allowing for the development of ripe, richly flavored and powerful wines and several sweet wines made from late-harvested grapes.
My first visit to Alsace was for the Marché de Noël in Strasbourg, for which I arrived via train from Wiesbaden, Germany, where my sister was living at the time. I was new enough to Europe then that the idea of crossing so easily and uneventfully into a new country on a train ride shorter than most drives was foreign and thrilling. Strasbourg’s Marché de Noël is a must-see Christmas market, without doubt one of the greats. It was also the first time I’d been served vin chaud blanc, or warm white wine, a version of mulled wine wholly new to me: warm Riesling with a singular anise star in the bottom of the glass.
While the drink was utterly seasonal, it was my first introduction to Alsace’s white wine culture. I hadn’t understood that this was a region predominantly focused on its whites, nor that those white wines were some of the most age-worthy and “serious” white wines in the world. Years later, with wine studies galore and more trips under my belt, I hope I can inspire you to explore the wines from this curious corner of France.
There are 4 grape varieties that are considered the “noble” (or best) varieties in Alsace: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Each of these are used to make single-variety wines that range from everyday drinkers to age-worthy excellence, and there are also styles that run the gamut between dry and sweet.
There are also regional white grapes like Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Chasselas and Sylvaner that make appearances in Crémant d’Alsace, the sparkling wines made by the traditional method, or the still white wine blends. The still white blends are often called “Gentil” or “Edelzwicker.” Gentil is generally considered a higher quality blend, since it must be at least 50% comprised of the “noble” white grapes and each variety must be vinified separately before blending, while the grape and vinification requirements for Edelzwicker are less constrained.
Pinot Noir, Alsace’s only red wine grape, has been planted in the region for centuries, but it’s only recently gained a reputation for greatness. It was only in 2022 when Alsace was granted Grand Cru AOC status, the highest level in the appellation, for its Pinot Noir wines in two territories; before that, Pinot Noir could not achieve Grand Cru status in Alsace, no matter how high quality the wines were nor how distinctive the terroirs. There are still plenty of “rouge léger” (light) Pinot Noir wines made in Alsace, meant to be enjoyed young and with a chill, like porch pounders. But there are also increasing amounts of “rouge” Pinot Noir d’Alsace wines, aged in oak barrels and intended to be treated just as seriously as their counterparts in Burgundy to the south.
If a rosé sounds more appealing as June’s warmth gets further underway, these, too are getting better and better in Alsace, where appellation law requires that all rosés are made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes.
Even the bottles themselves have a signature Alsatian flair, with a long, lean baseball bat-like bottle shape. They’re not quite German, not quite French…the very essence of Alsace.
What to look for in this tasting
It’s not easy to summarize the styles and flavors of Alsatian wines. While many wines are dry, some are off-dry or fully sweet. This is a region where individual grape varieties get to express themselves fully, even exuberantly when compared to other regions where they’re grown. Rieslings are broader and more powerful, Pinot Gris are golden and weighty, Gewurztraminers burst forth from the glass with their floral abundance, followed by oily richness. Alsace’s white wines in particular are some of the easiest to identify in blind tastings, since they’re so unlike whites from any other place.
If I were forced to pick some hallmarks, I’d choose 3: high alcohol levels that contribute to the wines’ weight, power and richness that carries through no matter the wines’ age, and a ginger-y spice that can range from subtle powdered ginger all the way to sweet-sharp candied ginger. Beyond that, it’s worth tasting each style to better understand its signature character.
The wines
#1: Crémant d’Alsace
In Alsace, Crémants are made with Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir…but most are predominantly Pinot Blanc, which also goes by Weissburgunder in Germany and Austria. Pinot Blanc, as the name suggests, is a white grape variety related to Pinot Noir, though it gets nowhere near as much love as its darker-skinned relative and is instead known for making good, but forgettable white wines. In Pinot Blanc’s defense, I’ve had some thoroughly enjoyable wines from the grape, particularly when flavors of ripe pear and spicy dried ginger make an appearance. In Crémant d’Alsace, look out for similar flavors of golden apple, pear, dried ginger and brioche.
If you select a rosé Crémant d’Alsace, it will be made entirely from Pinot Noir, as is legally required in this region. You can expect to find flavors like just-ripe raspberries and strawberries and cream in these wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Crémant d’Alsace Emotion, a style that requires a minimum of 24 months of lees aging
#2: Riesling d’Alsace
The best vineyards in Alsace are planted on the sloping foothills of the Vosges mountains, which provide shelter from weather that would otherwise prevent Alsace from getting as much sunshine, warmth and dryness as it happily enjoys. Riesling grapes here aren’t usually at risk of wet weather in the Fall, so they can enjoy their much-needed long, slow ripening seasons without too much concern. This abundant warmth and sunshine creates Rieslings that feel broad on the palate, with fuller bodies and more richness than any other Rieslings I’ve ever tasted, from anywhere else in the world. Flavors like peach, honey, ginger and grapefruit often show up alongside a wet slate-like mineral-y flavor. You can taste Alsace’s abundant sunshine, even though the steely core of acidity never wavers, and you’ll also notice that the alcohol levels in these wines tend to be higher than in many German Rieslings, further contributing to the perception of power and breadth.
What to ask for: Ask by name. Most of these wines are dry, though there are often scales on the back labels that can confirm the sweetness level. On the scale, you’re looking for “Sec,” which means dry.
Alternative(s): Stick with a Riesling d’Alsace
#3: Pinot Gris d’Alsace
As you’d expect, Pinot Gris goes by its French name in Alsace, though it’s not just the name that differs from its Italian Pinot Grigio counterpart. Alsatian Pinot Gris is often golden, even amber-y bronze in the glass, with aromas and flavors that speak so much more loudly, you might not even recognize the grape connection. Ripe peaches, golden apples and pears are complemented by a honeyed viscosity, smokiness and a ginger-y spice that markedly contrasts the fruity ripe flavors. These wines tend to have a bit of skin contact, hence the deeper color and fuller body, which also comes along with a phenolic bitterness that adds an extra zing to the wines’ acidity on the finish.
Many Alsatian Pinot Gris wines come with a touch of sweetness, so it’s worth taking a look at the back of the label to check if the producer has added a sweetness scale. Before you set aside anything but the driest of dry wines though, consider trying a lightly sweet style paired with salty snacks, a combo just as addictive as Kettle corn.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Pinot Gris d’Alsace, preferably a dry or off dry style
#4: Gewurztraminer d’Alsace
However you say it or spell it, Gewürtztraminer (”geh-vurtz-traminer”) in German-speaking countries, Gewurztraminer sans umlaut, as it appears in Alsace, Traminer, or my go-to shorthand, Gewurtz (”geh-vurtz”), this is one of the most polarizing grape varieties and wines I’ve ever witnessed firsthand.
Personally, I love a good Gewurtz. I full-on revel in its one-of-a-kind, abundantly floral nose, with aromas of roses, orange blossom, Turkish Delight and sweet lychees, followed by ripe peaches, a ginger-y kick and rich weightiness, almost oiliness, on the palate. I also have friends who full-on detest Gewurtz, saying that it smells like soap and tastes like it, too.
Gewurtz is like the cilantro of the wine world. Usually, you’re either into it or you absolutely, viscerally hate it. And is there anything more entertaining than watching someone try something polarizing for the first time? The anticipation! I was lucky enough to capture a picture of one of my good friends who hates Gewurtz at a winery in Eguisheim, in Alsace, France, Léon Beyer, when her nose reached the glass, just before tasting one of their Gewurz wines. I was prepared to see her restraining an expression of disgust, but surprisingly, she loved the wine, so my picture captured her expression of wide-eyed, brow-raising astonishment.
In Alsace, Gewurztraminer can be dry, off-dry and even fully sweet, so take a look at the back label to see if there is a sweetness scale to help you find the sweetness level you prefer.
What to ask for: Ask by name, preferably a dry or off-dry Gewurztraminer d’Alsace
Alternative(s): Stick with a Gewurztraminer d’Alsace, in any style
#5: Muscat d’Alsace
Muscat isn’t technically a single grape variety, but a name for a family of grape varieties, including Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Ottonel. These three family members alone go by a variety of other names, from Moscatel to Moscato to Muskateller and even Zibibbo, and there are even more family members to boot. This convoluted family tree situation is largely thanks to the fact that Muscat and all of its relations are some of the oldest grape varieties known today, enjoyed in ancient Greece and by the prolific Roman vine-spreaders, too.
There are many sparkling, sweet and fortified wines made from Muscat varieties from all over the world, but for this tasting, the dry or off-dry styles typical in Alsace work best.
While there are variations amongst Muscat family members, most Muscat-based wines have prominent aromas that range from orange blossom and fresh grapes to peaches, honey and orange marmalade. If you’ve ever thought that wine shouldsmell like grapes, Muscat wines will be right up your alley. On the palate, these wines are usually supported by a moderate acidity and body, though in Alsace, they often have extra weight and textural richness.
In Alsace, Muscat can be dry, off-dry and even fully sweet, so take a look at the back label to see if there is a sweetness scale to help you find the sweetness level you prefer.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Dry or off-dry Muscat wines from Alsace, France
#6: Pinot Noir d’Alsace
Pinot Noir is the sole red exception in Alsace’s world of white wine. The grape has been planted in Alsace for centuries, but only recently has gained recognition for its quality. For many years, Alsace was known for thin, light and unremarkable Pinot Noirs, with some that even bordered on unpalatably underripe. Things have changed, and there are now three Grand Cru territories identified for Pinot Noir in Alsace, along with a wholesale improvement in quality across the board. Warmer Springs haven’t hurt, but there’s also more focus on Pinot Noir in recent years, whereas historically, it was the token red often neglected amidst the wide range of whites most producers already tackle each year.
As serious as Pinot Noir is becoming in Alsace, there are still plenty of “rouge léger” wines, intentionally light, chillable and quaffable. The “rouge” versions, on the other hand, tend to be oak-aged, fuller-bodied and even age-worthy, especially from lieu-dit and Grand Cru vineyards.
Pinot Noir d’Alsace tends to have tannins that feel soft, silky and velvety. The wines can be quite savory, with flavors of dried leaves, mushrooms, wet slate, dried violets and smoke. They can also lean sweet, with flavors of dried cranberries, ripe cherries, vanilla, cloves and cinnamon.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): an Alsatian rosé, as these are always made with 100% Pinot Noir
Tasting tips
The eats
Alsace is funny in that it’s mostly a white wine region, yet the local foods are often meat-heavy and decadent. This is a place that defies expectations of what white wines are and how they’re meant to be enjoyed. Even in the sunny warmth of high summer, there are dishes like Flammkueche, AKA tarte flambée, a bacon and onion pizza of sorts with cream galore. There’s Fleischschnacka, which tasted like a meat stew wrapped cinnamon-roll style into sheets of egg pasta. There’s Choucroute Garnie à l’Alsacienne, a dish I didn’t order, though I watched with lurid fascination as subtly as I could while a fellow diner persistently made his way through an astonishingly large pile of sauerkraut, varied sausages, pork, ham, onions and potatoes as we sat outside baking in the early June sun. I felt sweat beading on my forehead just watching it happen, though I’d be all about that pile of comfort food during the cold, damp winters in Copenhagen. There’s also Baeckeoffe, a casserole with lamb, beef and pork, as well as potatoes, onions and Alsatian wine, with the added bonus of a dough-based top, à la pot pie. Suffice it to say that you won’t go hungry in this corner of the world.
If you’re hosting this tasting in summer and want to stick with the Alsatian theme, dishes like the Flammekueche, coq au Riesling (a version of coq au vin) or Zewelwai, an onion tart, would feel decadent without the overwhelm.
If you want to stay in theme, but prefer a charcuterie approach, bring out the soft pretzels and Alsatian Munster cheese, and round things out with melted Swiss or Gruyère for dipping, smoked pork and meat pâtés or terrines with accoutrements like pecans, figs, sliced Granny Smith apples, cornichons, dried apricots and peaches.
If none of these regional recommendations are floating your fancy, go a completely different route and serve up a range of Indian dishes. I know, it sounds totally out of left field, but there’s something about Indian warmth and spices paired with Alsatian wines’ breadth and complementary spice. Even better if there are some off-dry wines in your tasting whose sweetness will cool things off, just like mango lassi.
The prep
Some Alsatian whites are easy to find, while others might take some time, depending on where you live. Give your guests at least two weeks to find their wines before gathering for this tasting.
Encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, since this is a tasting where it’s best if the wines are chilled, though not too chilled, since wines are difficult to taste if they’re ice cold. And yes, even the Pinot Noir could use a slight chill. It’s a good idea to have an ice bucket or two handy as well, to accommodate any guests who forgot or didn’t have time to chill their wines before arrival.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first. If you have fewer than 6 wines/guests, you’ll still have a well-rounded experience. However, the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines are included, is recommended as follows:
Crémant d’Alsace
Riesling d’Alsace
Pinot Gris d’Alsace
Gewurztraminer d’Alsace
Muscat d’Alsace
Pinot Noir d’Alsace
